I was excited about my annual Fall trip to Branson. I look forward to the gorgeous hikes along the river, and around the lake. I have my favorite spots to visit, which I will detail in this blog. And I enjoy viewing the Christmas lights around town in the evenings. The shows are fun, always honoring God and Country. Branson is considered the Bible-belt Las Vegas. However, little did I know what horrors I would discover on this trip…..
My tradition when I pull into town is to drive straight to the Landing, an outdoor mall, and eat lunch at White River Fish House, which extends over the water. It is next door to and owned by Bass Pro.
I got the Cobb salad with a sangria. But what draws me here is the cast-iron skillet of jalepaneo corn bread with honey butter. It is extra moist, and rich in flavor. I sank into the cushy chair, enjoyed every bite and sip, and was lulled by the view on the water.
A few years ago, I found a hotel that sits out of town, on a hill, with a deck of rocking chairs overlooking the woods. The Savannah House is absolutely darling. They provide a large breakfast and fresh-made dessert at night. After checking in and unpacking, I drove to the Old Town area, and visited the Branson Centennial Musuem. Jim, the curator, welcomed me, and showed me the wonderful displays of the town’s history, mainly focusing on the entertainers who have performed here over the decades. Jim and his wife, Jean, have procured an enormous collection for the museum of all books written about Branson. They also sell some excellent ones in their bookstore:
Jim told me that The Shepherd of the Hills was the country’s first best seller. I have not read it yet, but I know that many local school children in generations before me read it as part of their curriculum. It must be fascinating.
Jim told me that the archives are housed in the county seat of Forsyth, just 30 minutes away. So away I went. The drive was relaxing and visually enjoyable.
As I entered the White River Valley Historical Society, the first thing I noticed was a woman working on an intriguing project.
I learned that her name is Ethel. She is a volunteer, and she handwrites every name she finds in old court records. Another woman, Doreen, explained their process to me: the names are written down, Tommy scans it, and another volunteer types it. Thus the names are indexed and searchable. Finally, the records themselves are scanned and digitized for in-house use (not online). I was stunned. I had no idea what an enormous amount of work these people do to preserve history for us. Doreen says they go to the courthouse, retrieve boxes of records, digitize them, return them for storage at the courthouse, and get more boxes. Incredible! The records go back to the 1880’s. This historical society is an example of thoughtful, diligent preservation. I hope people from all over the globe will come here to utilize their archives in their research. With finding aids, the staff have made the work so much easier for all of us. Also the library down the street has a massive collection of genealogical records. This town is like a Disneyland for family researchers, and historical authors and film makers! Go talk to the staff. They are waiting for you!
The Managing Director, Trish Trimble, came and joined our conversation. She kept mentioning the Bald Knobbers. I recognized the name, as it is a comedic theater in town that does humorous Hillbilly shows. Well, Trish and Doreen, explained the true, horrific tale behind that name. They told me that in the 1880’s this was pretty wild country and they only had one sheriff on a horse to cover the whole region. So the dignified businessmen/leaders of the town decided to deputize themselves and help the sheriff. In time, the thrill of exuding so much power enticed them to get rid of the sheriff and take over the town themselves. They started as a group of 13, but it quickly grew to over 200 men. They would meet in secret on a treeless hill (a bald knob) at night. They turned their coats inside out and wore bandanas over their faces. They became a gang of criminals, holding the townspeople in constant terror. They killed up to 100 people, stealing their goods and lands. I stood in shock, trying to imagine this. How could something like that happen? How could such good men go so horribly wrong?? Finally the governor threatened to bring in the militia if they didn’t disband immediately, which they did. They were taken to court, but these disgusting vigilantes were set free — their unconscionable crimes deprived of justice.
My mind was still reeling as I left, but I felt Doreen push a paper into my hand. I set it on the car seat beside me and quickly headed back to Branson, determined to find a book about the Bald Knobbers.
And look what I found! For just $2. For the past few decades, I have been buying my books at the Friends of the Library Bookstores. The money goes to help fund the local library. Most of these books are unavailable in Kindle format. When I travel, I always look for a Friends bookstore. Branson has the best one.
The books here range from $1 – $4. Many are new, hardcovers. They are community-donated. It is a double win: for the library and the customer. I left with an armload of books, anxious to start the Bald Knobber Saga.
But first…… dinner. I went to Dimitris’s Greek restaurant. The only Greek restaurant in town. I always hunt down healthy places to eat, as the Midwest has an over-abundance of fried food dining establishments. And since Mediterranean food is some of the healthiest on the planet, I was thrilled to find Dimitris. I met the owner, who is from Greece, and his recipes belonged to his mother. You can’t get more authentic than that! His namesake/grandson, Dimitris, is delightfully personable. I hope you get to meet him. His big personality adds much value to the restaurant. John, who took my order, knows much about history, and made my visit even more enjoyable.
When I got back to my room, I looked at the paper Doreen slipped into my hand. It was a newspaper article about Alf Bolen. There is a picture of Alf’s guillotined head. He was one of the worst outlaws in the region, viciously murdering 40 people. He was animalistic in his rage, butchering his victims. He was not apprehended because it was a no-man’s land while the soldiers were gone to battle in the Civil War. But when the soldiers returned, they captured and killed him. His head was skewered on a pole in the center of the encampment. People came from miles to see for themselves that the monster was dead.
Oh my, does Branson have a very different past from its present nature of entertainment. The next time you come for a visit, look for both characteristics of Branson.
The next morning, I stopped at my favorite market for a delicious dark chocolate latte. Nature’s Wonders is just around the corner from my hotel, thankfully.
I took a long hike along Table Rock Lake, and then stopped for lunch on my way out of town. Another form of healthy restaurant I look for when I travel is Japanese. Mitsu Neko has a fabulous plate of Teriyaki shrimp and vegetables, with delicate rice.
As I drove away, happy with memories created, I was thankful that Branson is no longer a terrifying place, but rather – a town full of created and natural beauty, exceptional music, and really fine people.