I made the trek to a small lake town in northern Iowa, solely because a friend strongly recommended it. When I arrived, I drove down the narrow Main Street and instantly understood what my friend was trying to tell me……in part, at first. It was reminiscent of my hometown in San Diego. I grew up on the peninsula of Point Loma and loved our beach town, so similar to this one. Clear Lake has the lazy sandy beaches, and the old stone cabins lining the lake.
I popped into the coffee shop to grab a latte and chat with the locals. Cabin Coffee has a warm, country charm.
I strolled up and down the street, in and out of the darling boutiques. Then I took off my sandals, and walked on the beach through the seaside ripples of the lake. I decided this is my new favorite vacation spot.
Up ahead was a historic paddlewheel boat. Music was emanating from the top deck. I was drawn straight to it. Music has always been the grounding foundation of my life. I listen to it constantly. In my home. In my car. When I awake. While I am falling asleep. And almost every single moment in between. Music carries me through the rough times of life; and is always my favorite companion in celebrations. It is so important to me that I go hear live music 4 -5 times a week. So, what a happy surprise to find an acoustic singer on the old paddlewheeler.
I asked the locals what highlights I should visit in Clear Lake. One woman looked me pointedly in the eyes, and said –“go see the Buddy Holly crash site”. I shrugged, and she reiterated it a little more firmly. So, the next morning, I drove several miles out into the country to a desolate place. I parked and followed a long, narrow path down the middle of an Iowa farm field. The path emerged onto a quiet, simple memorial. I looked in every direction. No buildings in view. Just silence, and growing crops. The emptiness and sense of loneliness overpowered me, and I was drawn to tears. Even as I write this, I can still feel it, and I experience the same response. The band members were all in their 20’s. My children are near that age. Imagining them dying one night, in this field, alone…..pained my heart.
I suddenly wanted to know these young men. The only thing I had ever known was one sentence: Buddy Holly, a musician, died in a plane crash. I drove back into town and started researching newspaper articles and querying town historians. I was directed to the Surf Ballroom, where Buddy Holly played his last performance. As I entered it, I realized it still had the ambiance from the 1950’s. It is cheerful with a nice stage, a beautiful large dance floor, tables, and booths.
It also has an unassuming green room with the names of visiting guests written on the walls.
As I walked down the halls, I kept noticing framed pictures, from ceiling to floor. I stepped in for a closer look and was stunned by what I saw. They were signed autographed photos of THE biggest headliners throughout the past 70 years.
The more current ones included: Willie Nelson, Chicago, Kenny Loggins, Alice Cooper, the Doobie Brothers, the Beach Boys, Blake Shelton, Brad Paisley, Dierks Bentley, etc. etc. etc. Most fans would be thrilled to see such big names up close in a small venue. I wonder how many are aware of the Surf Ballroom. I would readily drive the 5 hours to come back.
I asked if I could speak to the director, and a woman near to my age came out, and serenely smiled at me. I could tell that Laurie Lietz was accustomed to this type of response to the Ballroom. In an incredulous voice, I asked her how it is possible that such a tiny town in Iowa could draw such huge stars. She said they come because they want to play on Buddy Holly’s stage. BUT….. I stammered…. Buddy Holly died in 1959, and many of the modern young superstars were born long after Buddy Holly died. How did they even know about him???? And her simple answer astonished me. She said it is because he changed the entire future of music. His music influenced the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, and most of the world of rock’n roll. I thought that would have been attributed to Elvis Presley, the King. After all, Buddy Holly only produced seven top-40 hits in his brief 22 year life. But as I continued researching, I discovered that his innovative style ushered in ringing major chords, overdubbing, and echo chamber effects. I don’t even know what all that means, but I am very appreciative of its effect on the music industry. This young man, barely out of his teens, was inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame (in 1986), where his music is described as roughed up, with upbeat tempos and edgy lyrics. The Hall of Fame states: “Rock and Roll as we know it wouldn’t exist without Buddy Holly.” So that confirms it. How incredibly impressive.
The Surf Ballroom shared this photograph from their archives. It was taken at the band’s last performance…… just a few short hours before their deaths.
So, what happened that night? Well, according to the newspaper articles and documents, the band had been playing a tour of the midwest, driving in a rickety old bus. It was one of the worst winters in Midwest history. It was February, 1959, at 1:00 in the morning. The band was tired and dreaded driving that old, cold bus to their next destination. So, Buddy decided to charter a plane at the small nearby airport. The available plane only provided three passenger seats. The Big Bopper (J.P. Richardson) had the flu, so 21 year old Waylon Jennings gave up his seat to him. Buddy took one seat. And the two remaining band members flipped a coin for the last seat. Seventeen year old Ritchie Valens “won” the coin toss. As they turned to part ways, Buddy Holly jokingly said to Waylon Jennings, “Well, I hope your ol’ bus freezes up”. And reflecting back the humor, Waylon Jennings responded to Buddy, “Well, I hope your ol’ plane crashes”. Just seven miles away, the plane did crash, killing everyone on board. Waylon never recovered from the regret of his innocuous comment made responsively in jest.
The cause of the crash was blamed on worsening visibility due to the incoming winter weather. Plus, the 21 year old pilot had failed his instrument flight test, and was not accustomed to the instrument panel of that particular plane. In every possible way, it was tragic.
At the entrance to the path of the crash site is a venerated welcoming sculpture. It helps remind us of the great gift these young men left to the world. For there are few gifts greater than that of music, which so poignantly affects all our lives. It is with grateful joy that I now often listen to Buddy Holly’s songs. Go to Clear Lake and enjoy their continuous celebration of music!